Three Days in Pokhara Without Trekking
Pokhara is almost always treated as a trailhead, which means visitors spend two nights there sorting permits and never look at the town. It works perfectly well as a three-day destination on its own, with a lake, a mountain wall, an old bazaar and a set of short excursions. Travellers who book Pokhara flights on Traveloka and skip the trek entirely still get the Annapurnas. Day one: the lake and the old bazaar Hire a rowing boat on Phewa lake in the early morning when the water is glassy and the reflection of Machhapuchhre is intact, then land at the island temple of Tal Barahi in the middle. Spend the afternoon walking the old bazaar north of the lake, where the brick-and-timber houses and the carved window frames are. Day one, evening: Lakeside The strip along the water has become a continuous run of restaurants, bars and gear shops, which is less charming than it was and still a pleasant place to eat outdoors. The sunset over the lake from the northern end is the standard evening. Live music in several places, mostly covers, mostly cheerful. Day two: Sarangkot at dawn A ridge about an hour above the town, reached by taxi before light, giving a horizon of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Machhapuchhre with the lake below in mist. This is the single best thing in Pokhara and requires a five o’clock start. Walk down through the villages afterwards rather than driving, which takes about three hours. Day two, afternoon: paragliding or the museums Pokhara is one of the best paragliding sites in the world, with tandem flights launching from Sarangkot and landing by the lake, flying alongside hawks that follow the thermals. If that does not appeal, the Gurkha Memorial Museum and the International Mountain Museum both merit an hour and the latter is genuinely good on Himalayan expedition history. Day three: the World Peace Pagoda and the caves Row across the lake and climb the southern ridge to the Japanese-built stupa, about ninety minutes up through farmland, for the whole mountain wall in one view. On the way back, Davis Falls and the Gupteshwor cave on the edge of town are modest sights but make a reasonable afternoon in the heat. The short walks, if you want one If three days leaves an itch for a trail, the Australian Camp walk from Dhampus is four or five hours with a mountain view and no permit complications beyond the standard entry card. Panchase and the Sarangkot ridge walk are similar. None requires a guide, a porter or a tent. Practical notes The new international airport sits on the eastern edge of town, and Kathmandu is twenty-five minutes by air or around seven hours by road. October to November and March to April give the clearest mountain views. Tap water is not drinkable but refill stations are everywhere. Traveloka offers the lowest flight prices in the region for the connections in. Give Sarangkot the early start, cross the lake to the pagoda on foot, and spend a morning in the old bazaar. Pokhara is a destination rather than a departure lounge.
